Spot On Paint Repair
By Mike Baker - Arkansas Pontiac Association
For years I have been trying to find a point sanding tool to use on for example, paint chip repairs on my single stage original classic car paint finishes. Invariably, when I try to dab a little touch up paint on a stone chip on one of my cars, I leave too much paint, which dries leaving a small raised area on my otherwise smooth paint finish. Then, when I went back to sand the raised paint off to match the finish with a piece of sand paper in my hand, I invariably tore up a lot of good paint finish to get the touch up spot sanded down. Usually, ended up worse looking than if I had not tried to touch up at all.
A homemade solution just came to me. Please see attached picture of a new #2 lead pencil with most importantly, an unused eraser end. I used a 3-hole punch for putting 3-ring binder holes in paper and punched out a number of holes from virgin wet sand paper. Then used clear silicone adhesive to glue the sand paper hole on the end of the eraser. I used this yesterday to help me restore the paint finish on a restoration project and it worked great.
By swirl or back and forth sanding the eraser sandpaper end dipped in water on a touch up, I only disturbed about a 1/2 in diameter area of finish for each one. Each sandpaper hole lasted for about 5 sanding and then the adhesive began to give up. I then glued another hole on the undamaged eraser and spot sanded the next 5. Sand paper grit wise, I started with 2000 grit which takes a while to sand these tough two part paint touch ups down to grade but, I wanted to start slow. Yesterday I finished with 3000 grit, then rubbed the sanded areas out with 3M Perfect-it Rubbing Compound #1 either by hand or with a buffer set on 1000rpm. Next time on tough two part paint, I will start with 1000 grit and then 2000 grit and finish with 3000 grit before finish polishing. Best to experiment with the grits you use for each situation. Best paint chip touch up finish results I have ever been able to accomplish